Tony O'Connor
Tony O'Connor

Verulamium and the Beginning of my Adventures in Archaeology by our expert guide Tony O'Connor

The ancient city of Verulamium grew from an Iron Age settlement, or oppidum, to become a prosperous Roman provincial town. After the Claudian invasion of Britain in AD 43, it has been theorised that Verulamium achieved the status of ‘municipium’ - a semi-independent city state, though there is no evidence to confirm this. Destroyed by Boudica in the 1st Century AD, the town recovered to become a significant Roman town, complete with theatre, forum and basilica. Parts of the city walls still stand and a hypocaust hints at the luxurious lifestyles enjoyed by wealthy Romano-British citizens.

Extensive archaeological investigations have taken place at Verulamium over many years - and the famous pioneering archaeologist Sir Mortimer Wheeler tested his revolutionary methods at the site in the 1930s. In addition to the visible Roman features and structures, we will enjoy a tour of the Verulamium Museum (including specially arranged access to the archives), which contains both impressive mosaics and elaborate lead coffins, as well as more intimate hints of the realities of life in the town.

Growing up and going to school in St. Albans in the 1970’s is where my adventure in archaeology began. My first museum visit as a child was to the Verulamium Museum; The first excavations I worked on were the Roman bath house on Branch Rd and the Gorhambury Villa, which lay just outside of the Roman town. Later, I spent time working first as a volunteer and then as a member of the curatorial team at the Verulamium Museum. Here, I gained a fabulous introduction to museum work which has been the main focus of my career for the last 35 years. Although in the years since I have worked on and visited sites all across the Roman empire, returning to Ver and its fantastic site museum still feels like coming home to me.

The excavations at Gorhambury (1972 – 1982) were directed by the then Historic Monuments Inspector and mosaic expert David Neal. My time at Gorhambury introduced me to archaeological fieldwork and recording techniques. One of the most focussed periods in any season was getting ready for the site record photographs, for which the exposed stratigraphy would have to be meticulously cleaned. One year the bath house posed a bit of a problem as the chalk used in the construction had badly discoloured. Who would know looking at the site photograph that the solution would be to paint the chalk with whitewash? Volunteering at the Verulamium museum led to me becoming part of the curatorial team. One of my first jobs was to catalogue the coin collection from the site, which would form part of the (then) new computerised collections databases being created in the UK’s museums. The experience gave me a fascination with Roman coinage; what we can tell from the coins of the changes in the fortunes of the empire; how the empire presented itself to the world and how a monetary economy functioned in Roman Britain.

One of my most vivid memories of working at Verulamium was the first time I was allowed to handle the Verulamium Venus, on of the key finds from the site. The responsibility of handling such an important survival from the Roman period was initially terrifying, but I was soon put at ease by colleagues. The privilege of handling and working with wonderful objects from the past is still something I am very conscious of even today.

As well as revealing the story of one of the most important towns in pre-Roman and Roman Britain, a visit to Verulamium also reveals  the story of the development of archaeology in Britain from studies by antiquarians, through the campaigns of Mortimer Wheeler and Sheppard Frere to present day research.

Join Tony on his Roman St. Albans study day

Enjoy a guided tour of the museum along with a special visit to its stores with Museum Curator David Thorold, where you will see some of the published material from the Wheeler collection, plus other artefacts from Verulamium not currently on display. There will also be a visit to the theatre and the Roman Town House, with its famous hypocaust and hypocaust mosaic, unearthed by Wheeler in the 1930s.

Click here for the day's full schedule.


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Verulamium and the Beginning of my Adventures in Archaeology by our expert guide Tony O'Connor was published on 6 July 2020

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